So I thought since Cath told you about her Sunday in Decatur a post ago, I would tell you about mine across the pond. For one, I put on a dress! I haven’t worn one of these in roughly five months because they expose the legs too the wily Scottish wind (how is this the country where men decided to wear skirts sans knickers?!).

What did I get all dressed up fer, you ask? To walk two blocks from our flat, buy some delicious German bread from Konditormeister Falko, and come back home. 20 minutes later I was back in my sweats another tres chic outfit. We then proceeded to eat butter, jam and bread for the next hour (my first slices of bread since I started that diet thingy). My, it was delicious!

This is what it looked like on our two block walk (blue sky!):

We spent the rest of the afternoon reading, and I started a mini art project (I’m calling it Sheep in Party Hats… because, you know, the world needs more sheep in funny attire):

The scuba dress I donned to buy bread is from Primark — a shopping trip that happened in December, before I let my guilty conscience get the better of me. The dress and belt were only £17 -ish, so you can see why it will be a hard vice to back away from. I did get this ring on Friday that’s from a fair trade shop called One World Shop to make up for my sinful shopping:

So not a particularly productive Sunday, but isn’t that how they should be? What did you guys get up to? Any lazy plans for this weekend?

Oh and thank you for the sweet comments about our wedding! xoxox

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Hi Cath!

How was your midterm?! It sometimes boggles my mind that we’ve been out of undergrad for so long. “Midterm” sounds like something 21 year olds worry about. Are they easier at 28?

It’s been so warm here (mid 50s!) that sometimes I keep the window open all afternoon! Lovely!

Miss you so much!

Love,

Lar

Want to know an Edinburgh secret? This place — this little defunct police box masquerading as a coffee stand — has some of the best curries and samosas Matt and I have ever tasted. The Bollywood Coffee Box has only been in Edinburgh for about as long as Matt and I have been here (six months — blimey, how time flies!). I figure that’s the only way there isn’t a massive line here every single day: it’s still an undiscovered gem.

Shamefully Matt and I walked by it for months always thinking “we should try some chai or one of her chickpea curries,” and then scurrying past to the warmth of our flat. Four months of wasted time and deprived taste buds tsk, tsk.

And it’s not just the delicious food that comes out of the Bollywood Coffee Box that makes visiting a delight, it’s the proprietor. Nutan is one of the sweetest, warmest people I’ve met in Edinburgh. Every time Matt and I visit, we’re left feeling lighter and happier. Oh and did I mention her fullsized curries (with saffron basmati rice) are only £3. Happy belly and happy mind for about $5!!! Deal of the century!

For those of you in Edinburgh, here are the details:
Where: Right off the Links where Bruntsfield Place and Bruntsfield Terrace meet
When: Every day, usually 11 am to 8 pm
What: Coffee, chai, snacks, curries (vegetarian and meat), samosas, pakoras, parathas

For those of you not in Edinburgh, when you come to visit, this is where we’ll take you for your first meal (so you don’t have to drink our green juice).

This is what we eat when we go to Nutan’s:

You hungry, yet? Whatchu waitin’ for? Get your bollywood booties over this way! Nutan will welcome you with the best smile in the world:

For any Dr. Who fans out there, Nutan really does own the TARDIS. I mean how else can you explain how she makes all these delicious foods in a space smaller than most people’s closets? Not possible! It would only make since that she’s the Doctor and instead of a sonic screwdriver she has a sonic spoon.

P.S. Is she not wearing the most perfect sweatshirt ever? This was not planned — just one of those serendipitous things that happen when the stars align.

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Dear Cath,

I can’t believe we discovered the Bollywood Coffee Box just two weeks after you guys left – argh! I know you aren’t the biggest curry fan, but I think you would love this. I can’t wait to introduce you and Troy the next time you are in town (August?! I hopes, I hopes!).

Love and Curry!

Lar

p.s. She was playing the Lagaan soundtrack the last time we were there! Though Nutan admitted to not loving the movie because there’s too much cricket in it. Another meeting of the minds.

I thought I was doing really well. I’ve been good about eating super healthy (still mainly gluten free and all vegan) and shopping at local shops for food. I’m trying to learn how to meditate and incorporate more yoga throughout the week. Matt and I have cut down our T.V. watching and actually sit around the table for dinner and talk. We eat sprouted mung beans and organic carrots when we can afford it. I was feeling all very back-patty…

And then…

I got this comment from some anonymous person in the previous post (Weekend Wear for Cold Climates):
http://www.guardian.co.uk/business/2008/jun/23/primark.children

Just a little link that I originally ignored because I thought it was spam (ahem,  Anonymous) and because I didn’t want to read about child labor and slums (such a downer for a Saturday night — feel free to cringe). I assume Anonymous linked it because I mentioned I got my Regata Gala sweatshirt from Primark.

For those of you stateside, Primark is like H&M and Target had a baby and then sold that baby for cheaper than Walmart prices. When Matt and I first wandered into Primark here in Edinburgh, our eyes lit up. We could actually afford fun, frivolous things again. What with traveling and trying to save for the future — again more back-patty action — we/I can’t really afford trips to Top Shop and Zara (£40/$63 for a blouse, no thank you!). At Primark we can buy fuzzy hot water bottles, armloads of clothes, cute necklaces, socks, scarves, pillows and belts for only £40. Heaven!

Now at the back of my mind I did have that niggly sensation (aka guilty conscience) because I knew if I was buying a necklace for £1, someone on the other end wasn’t making very much money. I’ve had the niggles when shopping at other places (Forever 21, H&M, Target, Walmart, etc.), but the sensation is never so great that I couldn’t tamp it down with… buying more cute stuff! For instance, this weekend Matt and I needed a pick-me up and we decided to just have a looksee at Primark. You can see what I bought here:

See that expression smiley with a twinge of guilt: Tank and hair feathers from Primark • Skinnies from Madewell (now I’m questioning you too, Madwell! Read here about their social responsibility) • Hunter Boots (how do you treat your rubber workers, Hunter? The only info I could find was that all Hunters used to be made in Scotland, originally Edinburgh –woohoo!– but they had to move shop overseas in 2008 due to financial pressure — bummer).

Two out of three ethically-made pieces here! June Shin necklace (jeweler based out of Atlanta, Georgia) • Snoozer Loser quarter-holder necklace (independent online boutique based out of New York) • Primark feather hair thingie (errr….)

I went to upload these photos into an AsianCajun post about Edinburgh and springtime (it would have been a lot less wordy — sorry!), and that’s when I saw Anonymous’ link. Niggly turned into full on face-punch. Dang it! So I did a bit of (internet) research. It is true that since 2008, Primark has tried to stop child labor at their supplier’s factories in Bangladesh and India. But since then, very little has been done to change the terrible circumstances of a vast number of people working in the garment industry — all so I can buy a cute tank for £2.

I know other retailers are culpable, and probably the best bet for not buying something that supports subsistent living conditions for thousands is by visiting your local charity shop and thrift stores. For staples like tees and good fitting jeans and work clothes, I’m going to find companies that have invested in fair trade principles.

How about you? Do you guys have any great tips on where to shop (and not spend an arm and a leg) on ethically made clothing? Do you even care about this or does it just make you tired — another thing to do better! (I know that’s how I feel, but I really will attempt to adjust my shopping habits). Do leave comments about this! I’d love to hear tips on how to be a more conscientious consumer and if you guys struggle with this too.

Eeesh! That’s a lot for a Monday isn’t it? How ’bout some pretty crocuses to leave you feeling happy after all that serious talk:

p.s. I know this issue is much bigger and more complex than I covered in this single blog post. Please feel free to just add to the conversation in the comments below. I’ve been reading War of Want’s Love Fashion Hate Sweatshop campaign, and they suggest that you shouldn’t boycott your favorite high street stores because that means loss of jobs for those on the other end (already making too little to live on). Instead, they suggest you campaign for workers’ rights. Read more about how to do that here.

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Dear Kitcath,

Sorry to be so wordy lately! I really did just want to write a post about springtime in Edinburgh, and just couldn’t!

I’m looking up some good places in the UK to shop that won’t leave me with a guilty conscience. I feel like Decatur has so many great places: Mingei, Evolve Boutique, Green Mosaics, etc. I need to find the Edinburgh equivalents!

Love and Happy Monday!

Lar

I know it might be hard to trust style advice from someone who has ‘fessed up to her love of sweat pants, but I think I found a perfect winter weekend outfit for Scotland. Oh, did I mention it involves a sweat shirt? Wait it gets better! It involves one of those sweat shirts that says some sort of fakey sporty thing on it. For instance, did you know (says my sweatshirt) that I was on the varsity regatta rowing team in high school? In the photo above, I’m daydreaming about all the time spent on the river and at regatta galas…. those were the days…(I just googled “what is a regatta?”).
Psst…Cath and I attended a public high school that wasn’t anywhere near a river, or boats, or galas and I’ve always had a preternatural dislike of things involving teams and water… and paddles, for that matter.

But I love a cheap dark gray sweatshirt even if it makes blatantly untrue claims about my prowess in high school and the water. So I bought it and wore it this way:

Mendacious sweatshirt from Primark ($10-ish!) • thrifted jean button-up • Next skinny jeans • Frye boots

I’m pointing to my head in the photo to the right because I just got my first hair cut since June (when Cath and I went together to get twin cuts and donate our hair). I’m going back to the salon in a few weeks to have my hair lightened organically (no smelly chemicals). It’s Edinburgh’s only organic hair salon (I didn’t know hair salons could be organic until I googled it). I’m trying to go as chemical-free as possible with my beauty supplies.

Anywhoodle, what are you guys up to this weekend? Any Regatta Galas (or is that a summer thing)? Oh! And you still have a chance to enter our Shabby Apple giveaway (just click here for details) if it’s before Sunday evening. I’m crossing my fingers for you!

—–

Dear Kitcath,

I found this at Waitrose today. It’s like the UK version of the Larabars! It’s delicious — a bit fruitier than the Larabars with smaller bits of nuts. On the back it has a union jack and says “Gleefully Made in Great Britain.” I’ll stock up on some for when you next come to visit.

Can’t wait to skype chat tomorrow (tomorrow? Sunday? which is best?).

Love,

Lar

Matt’s department at the University of Edinburgh held a Burns Supper this past weekend. When going to a dinner for the poet of Scotland, you wouldn’t be caught dead in trousers (or pants for that matter). So Matt bought this dashing tartan number. He’s still working on getting the rest of the kilt accoutrements: sporran (purse), socks (he improvised with some sporty ones), dirk (knife), etc.

Apart from wearing skirts kilts, what do you do to honor Robert Burns you ask? Bagpipes, scotch, eat haggis, scotch, dancing (a ceilidh), some more scotch, topped off with poetry. If you are rusty on your Burns, you’ll probably at least remember Auld Lang Syne and My Love is Like a Red, Red Rose. But if you think all of Burns poetry was sweet and nostalgic you must do some more reading here. He was a bit (read: a lot) of a ladies man and had a great sense of humor. I think he would have been pleased as punch to have men traipsing around on his birthday in kilts, toting bottles of scotch and mumbling rude poetry.

Non-Scots might grimace at the idea of having to eat haggis in order to do this Burns Night thing properly, but really it’s quite tasty. Cath and I both like the meaty version, but this year I opted for the vegetarian one .

What’s in the real version, you ask? Usually sheep heart, liver, lungs, onion, oatmeal, suet and spices — traditionally all wrapped up in a sheep’s stomach. I know that sounds daunting (and terrible if you are vegetarian), but back in the day you used every bit of your very precious animals. What does it taste like? A more irony kind of sausage. When mixed with your potatoes and turnips, it’s delightful!

What’s in the vegetarian version? Lentils and beans instead of the animal bits, and obviously no sheep tummy wrapper. I actually prefer this version most of the time because it’s less iron-y and lets more woolie sheepies roam around.

Not as scary as you thought, right?

In closing, more men in kilts for you lads and lassies:

—-

Dear Cath,

I so missed you sooo much this year! Our first Burns Night apart.

Remember this from this post a few years back?

Love and haggis,

Lar

(Me with about 15 pounds of groceries on my back and Matt with about 35 pounds- ahhh true love!)

Not owning a car in Edinburgh is no biggie. The bus system here is great and the entire city is really very manageable by foot. There are even trains and buses that take you to nearly every little town in Scotland that your heart desires. But even with this cornucopia of public transport at my disposal, I still sometimes fantasize about my gas-guzzling Chevy that I left in the states.

Starting to eat an uber-healthy diet has changed our lifestyle in a number of ways: no more cookie time; no more quick stop to the local fish n chipee when our tummies growl; and no more hopping on a bus to Asda or toddling a few blocks down to Tesco. In order to be able to afford all this fruit and veg that we are eating, Matt and I now walk about 1.5 miles round trip to an inexpensive green grocer.

(On Lar: snood from Vivid Boutique in Decatur • thrifted shirt from Armstrongs in Edinburgh • Next pink skinnies • Hunter Boots wedge wellies) • hiking backpack is from a random outdoorsy store in Murica, Spain circa 2003 • Eugenia Kim hat • Primark coat and gloves)

I like to feel all noble and Lance Armstrongy because we are walking to buy healthy food, but really I just get whiny and grumpy-pants. I pine for the days of yore in Atlanta when I could drive .75 miles to my grocery store, fill up my trunk (or do I mean boot?) with tons of food, and then drive home and congratulate myself for…erm… finally going grocery shopping, with a nice cookie or two… or five. Horrible I know! Bad for the planet, bad for my health, bad for my cookie jar (always depleted).

I would like to think that if I did have a car in Scotland (and could drive manual, on the wrong side of the road!) that I would never use it except for romantic weekend excursions to castles and lochs. But I know that if I could, I would drive nearly everywhere — especially when it involves totting 20 cucumbers, 5 sweet potatoes, 2 bags of kale, innumerous cans of chick peas, jars of almond butter, peppers, squash, romaine, onions, avocados, etc.

(Daily green juice: cucumber, romaine, kale, apple and celery… not very good for cookie dipping if you were wondering)

The annoying part of all of this is that because I’m eating all these veggies and whole grains, I have a lot more energy and walking back up a hill with a hiking backpack full of veg isn’t as much of a problem as you would think. Sure, I gripe and groan the whole way (sorry, Matteo!), but — blast it all!– this eating healthy thing is working.

This above pic is actually a new favorite recipe of ours. We feel so decadent eating it: roasted sweet potato, black beans (cooked with onion and garlic and some veggie stock), lightly steamed kale, and kiwi (yes, kiwi!) salsa on corn tortillas – soooo good!

—-

Don’t forget to enter Cath’s give-away, lovely readers! To find out how to win a pair of these awesome Feiyue sneaks, see this blog post (the one below). These sneaks were favored by Shaolin monks and now loved by Parisian hipsters. I feel these would go well with my new active lifestyle, non?

—-

Dear Cath,

Do you find yourself more grumpy on this diet? I’m trying to over-come some of it with some ommmss and journaling, but it’s so much more satisfying to gripe. Why is that?

You should definitely try that sweet potato meal above though! It’s one of the only recipes that isn’t too salady and I don’t complain a jot when I eat it.

Love,

Lar

p.s. This was a photo from yesterday morning out of our kitchen window. Pretty ooo lala – non?

photo credit

The Danish television crime drama “The Killing” hasn’t made it stateside, but British readers probably know the show and will roll their eyes at hearing yet again about Sarah Lund’s famous jumpers (that’s “sweaters” for you/us Americans).

I’m not a huge fan of crime detective shows unless it’s quaint or period (e.g. “Pushing Daisies” or “Poirot”). Too much crazy psychopath nonsense gives me the hibbie jibbies. But “The Killing” is totally worth the mind-shivers because of its kick-ass, female lead who wears these awesome sweaters/jumpers:

photo credit

Sarah Lund (see above right) is the crime-solving Danish bad ass/leading lady in “The Killing.” Her character isn’t Carrie Bradshaw. She wears the same sweater/jumper nearly every episode (she has 2-3 she rotates in the first two seasons), but it’s because of these sweaters that she has become a style icon. In fact The Guardian listed her as #1 on their best dressed celeb list of 2011.

photo credit

You might be thinking “Sweater, schmeater (or jumper, schwumper) — who cares?! Wearing a woolly knitted pattern on your torso does not a style icon make.” I think it goes something like this: It’s winter time and cold and windy. You wear lots of layers, but still walk around shivering. You know why? Cuz you don’t have a 100% Danish wool jumper that not only keeps you warm, but makes you feel like an intensely-focused, crime-kicking lady detective that doesn’t care what others think. In fact, you care so little, you wear the same outfit for 10 days straight without showering. It’s the ultimate in I-don’t-give-a-s*&t clothing. And who doesn’t want more of that in their closet/lives?

I’m still taking showers regularly and have only worn my sweater once, but, yes-indeedy, I now own what I call my “Sarah Lund Jumper” for those days when I feel like “ooo sooo cold {shake, shake}” and need to feel like “F*&%, the cold and that stupid guy who cut me off in line at Tesco!”

Here I am in all my bad-assery. Yeah, I’d scare the pants off all those bad guys:

I got this 100% wool, Danish jumper at a lovely vintage shop here in Edinburgh called Godiva for £25. Mine is real-deal Danish wool, but it’s not the actual sweater/jumper Sarah Lund wears. Lund has a $300 version by Gudrun & Gudrun. It’s self-cleaning and much softer than my itchy wooly job, but I think you can kick ass in either version.

So ladies and gents, lesson learned today: buy a crime-fighting jumper and you too can run after bad guys and solve intricate crimes or, you know, at least give that Tesco line-cutter guy the evil eye with Danish aplomb.

—-

Dear Cath,

I’m so bummed we didn’t get to watch this together when you were here. I still hope you guys can get your hands on a copy! I wonder if the sweater would work as well in Atlanta. Even in the winter I think the humidity would take down anyone wearing a Scandinavian jumper faster than any psychopathic serial killer, so maybe don’t try this until you come visit me again.

Skypie date this weekend?

xoxoxoxo,

Lar

So the best place to get natural light in our flat is by the bay window. That also happens to be the coldest spot in our flat. The glass acts less like a barrier to cold weather and more like a conduit (“See these cute cracks, wind? Just sneak through here!” Damn you, window). It was roughly 3°C (that’s about 37 °F), so I would guess our bay window area is about 4°C with wind gusts of 10 mph. Hence the lovely I’m-so-freakin’-cold pose:

Another classic pose (“Matt, I swear I can actually see the wind whistling through the window frame”), but I had to include it because it shows the actual gorgeous color of this paisley shirt jacket I picked up at vintage clothing store Armstrongs the other day.

Jacket from Armstrongs • H&M turtleneck • Next pink trousers • Frye boots • thrifted leather bag (Finders Keepers, Atlanta) • necklace from Snoozer Loser

Isn’t that a lovely use of paisley? I think someone hand made this shirt/jacket because there isn’t a label and certain bits look hand-stitched.

I added my Eugenia Kim hat and snood before piling on my jacket and coat (four layers!):

Below is an outfit photo of my kitchen chair. S/he decided to wear my other Armstrongs purchase: a floral printed shirt. I personally wouldn’t wear it open like that, and I would pair it with skinnies instead of a beige pillow, and put my hair in a top knot. To each their own, Chair.

Oh and look at our lovely prezie last weekend. More snow! Snow, I love. Wind, screw you! As I type this the wind is attempting to batter down my kitchen window and is succeeding in giving me palpitations.

Sorry AsianCajuns has been so Lar heavy this week. Cath has been wrapping up a hectic week at work and getting ready to come visit us – yipppeeee! I promise we’ll have more Cath posts post-Paris!

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Kitcath!!!!! Pastries together in Paris in just THREE days. THREEEEE!!!

Here’s another postie to get you into the holiday spirit via Edinburgh! The public lights are especially beautiful — my photos don’t do them justice:

(Below) Isn’t this so cheery? You can grab a piece of pizza, hop on a stationary, vintage, double-decker and gaze at the castle in the distance (can you see it under the lights — it’s silhouetted against the dusky sky):

And I love looking into the shop windows. Most of the stores would make mincemeat of the contents of my wallet (ewww), so I make do with pressing my nose to the glass and taking covert pictures:

I love this combo of minty green, white and gold. I’m soooo stealing that for my decor next year — I even have the white owl already from this year’s loot. Christmas score!

And now this is most impressive. We still have occupiers in Edinburgh! It has been incredibly windy (up to 90 mph wind gusts) and snowy and rainy, and our occupiers are still here! They have an informative and frequently-updated website if you want to read more about the them.

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Dear Kitcath,

FOUR more days. Matt and I just figured out the perfect distribution of blankets between our two sleeping areas to keep us all warm and snug in our flat. Your room does have the drafty chimney, but it has lots of twinkly fairy lights to compensate for that.

FOUR!!!!

xoxoxo,

Larbar

I like to consider myself an armchair art historian. Art history was my major in undergrad and I love museums. Museum’s are my Tiffany’s (lucky for Matt that the art isn’t for sale): “If I could find a real-life place that’d make me feel like Tiffany’s, then – then I’d buy some furniture and give the cat a name!”*

So I was ecstatic to find out that the Scottish National Portrait Gallery, which had been closed for extensive renovations for two and a half years, had just reopened this past week! (I spent a summer as an intern at the National Portrait Gallery in Washington D.C. during the six years that it was closed for renovations and always felt kind of cheated).

I love the building. I’m usually not a big fan of neo-Gothic, but I feel like I’m entering Highclere Castle (aka Downton Abbey or Toleigh Towers) when I walk through the doors.

It’s a small space for a national gallery, but I think that makes for a nice change. You certainly don’t have a chance to get art fatigue or be overwhelmed, and it gives you time to enjoy all the historic, tartan-clad peoples. Here are a few of my favorites:

So, not all are tartan-clad. I call this one Mr. Fancy Pants/Trousers (studious art historian that I am). His actual name is James Hamilton (painted by Daniel Mytens in 1629). Just look at James’ heels (and spurs!). Chanel boots have nothing on his footwear. I think I’m quite fond of the 17th century just based on this portrait. Men could wear high-heeled slouchy boots and silver lamé. My kind of look for sure.

Here’s another nice looking man… and, in the inset, what he looks like dressed as a lady:

This is Prince Charles Edward Stuart (aka Bonnie Prince Charlie). In order to avoid his captors (one of many such daring-dos), he dressed as Flora MacDonald’s maid. Very convincing don’t you think? In fact, I don’t even think he needed the dress. (Flora is below):

I like Flora’s more feminine version of plaid: give it some bows, ruffles and balloon sleeves with arm slits. Lovely! Why should the menfolk have all the sartorial fun?

For those of you less fond of tartan, how about some more contemporary Scots, such as John Smith:

Don’t you just love his glasses? Mr. Smith led the Labour Party in the 90s — which of course I knew without reading the sign next to his head.

Sometimes the portraits come to life and join in a parade outside the gallery  (for the opening weekend festivities):

And here is one parting image of the lobby all dressed up for Christmas. Lovely, isn’t it?

Thanks for all the kind words on my Christmas decor, lovelies! I hope you have a fabuloso weekend!

—-

Dear Kitcath,

I wasn’t sure if you guys will be so overly-museumed after Paris, so we might not make it to the NPG. Did you remember I tried to get a job here when we were studying abroad in Edinburgh? Apparently I have a thing for portraits in general: talking about them and drawing them.

EIGHT more days! Yippeeeeee!!!!

Love,

Lar

*Holly Golightly