We’ve all been here:

Maybe not this particular gate per say, but these hills by Ben Nevis in the Scottish Highlands have seen some famous menfolk. Harry and friends took the Hogwarts train through this terrain, Liam Neeson as Rob Roy bounded away from the English up that hill, and Mel (face painted blue and white) strode about in his skirt kilt here.

So while Cath has been inspiring you with her lovely outfits, I’ve been dressed like this:

Nice, huh? Columbia, North Face, Pata-gucci: brands that I didn’t know existed, or pretended they didn’t exist (down with the black North Face fleece!), until two years ago (the “ugly pants” in this photo debuted on this blog here). Not my favorite clothing (except for my Zissou-inpsired neon pink cap), but so wonderful when one is doing some serious hiking. That’s right. Serious hiking. Two more outdoorsy words that are new to my vocabulary.

You can hike in cuter clothes: lace-up booties, skinny jeans, properly layered and fitted flannels, some sort of felt fedora. But, ladies and gents, when you are scrambling up rain-soaked rocks, stomping through peaty bogs, and attempting to pee (out in the open- gak!) at high altitudes, you do not want to worry about wriggling out of good-butt jeans or slipping off a mountain in lace-up Frye boots.

Now you might ask yourself, so what is the point of not just the ugly attire, but the (serious-to-me) hiking in the first place?!

Firstly, you get to take a train (I love trains!). It is in fact the same route they use in all the Harry Potter movies:

We did not pass Hogwarts, but we did stop at the most remote station in this part of Scotland. The “town” of Corrour is literally made up of the train station and that wee green house you see in the background. No roads, just a train stop. Two buildings surrounded by large rolling hills and mountains for miles and miles:

Secondly, you get to see beautiful things like this: Scotland on a sunny day! We were staying in Fort William which gets the highest level of rain fall. for Scotland! And it was sunny and glorious:

Thirdly, sheep. I love sheep!

Fourthly, friends (and rainbows!). My lovely friend and sistah-in-law Pam is the one who encourages Matt and I to be outdoorsy. If you are of a similar adventuresome spirit as she (or would like to live such a life vicariously, like moi), read all about her life in Kigali, Rwanda on her blog Pam the Nomad.

Fifthly, sun and hills and mountains and tree stumps:

Sixthly, because wherever this guy goes, I go (isn’t that the 80s jingle for My Buddy? Matt doesn’t wear overalls):

Seventhly (not a word?), because you get a rest from me gabbing about ethical clothing (everything I’m wearing in this post is at least two years old except for the hat which I bought in a weakened state to make myself feel better about the rest of my sartorial trappings).

Between being momentarily outdoorsy, working from home in my work-out clothes (which I never work out in), and my ethical muddle, I’m finding it hard pressed to remember how to dress with a bit of je nais se quoi. It’s a good thing I have Cath to keep me inspired and remind me that I can look cute at some future date (one perk to being a twin, “ahhh, that’s how I use to look in pencil skirts and heels!”).

Tell me, do you guys own fleece and water-resistant trousers?

—–

Dear Cath,

Do you remember Fort William ever looking so sunny? Isn’t it amazing? I so wish you could have been there with us! I know we aren’t real hikers, but you would have loved the sheep and I would have bought you a matching neon cap — we could have hummed the Life Aquatic sound track as we stumbled around fields.

I do seriously mean it though, when I say you keep me inspired. Now that the weather is trying to be warm in Scotland, I will try to emerge from my layers of sweat pants and woolly socks.

I miss you so much. Why is this not getting easier?

LOVE,

Lar

Chugga-chugga-chugga-chugga. . . the Orient Express, the Trans Siberian, Harry Potter! Aren’t trains just so romantic? Maybe it’s just being a car-centric American, but train travel seems so marvelous. It’s the stuff off cinematic fog-filled farewells, rolling green countryside, and ladies with fur stoles drinking tea in the dining car. (Can you tell most of my knowledge comes from BBC period dramas and old black and whites).

I’ve been on a few trains in my day (mostly around Spain, Scotland and Eastern Europe), and no one runs alongside them waving hankies any more and everything is sort of gray plastic and fabric on the inside (no more polished wood and white linen table cloths). Still, there is something marvelous about them. Sitting snugly while the countryside and cities sweep by.

We took the train down from Edinburgh to London last weekend. Here’s a bit what that journey looked like:

Edinburgh’s Waverly Station:

That’s the Scottish National Gallery looking all neo-classical in the background:

Southern Scotland whizzing by:

Train necessities: freshly baked bread, Scottish butter, and dominos:

Newcastle through my smudgy window:

The sun came out around York (just look at them clouds! Ahh to be in England!):

Still on the fence about all my fashion dribble, so in the meantime here is a tilted photo of what I wore to train travel:

Really old pleather Express jacket • Madewell Skinnies • Hunter Boots (on sale now at Shopbop!) • Zucca canvas tote via a Japanese fashion mag

Have you guys been on any train trips? Any romantic hanky waving moments? Cath and I had one our senior year in high school when studying abroad in Spain. Our Spanish families came to say good bye to us and there was much crying and cheek kissing. I think everyone should have a misty-eyed goodbye at a train station at least once in their lives.

—-

Dear Cath,

Remember when we left A Coruña years and years ago? I loved that sleeper train! I even loved the non-fancy trains we took around Scotland — just watching the landscape change.

I have more posties coming up about my London trip so I can show you a bit of what we did — so not the same as you being there!

xoxoxox,

Lar

So I thought since Cath told you about her Sunday in Decatur a post ago, I would tell you about mine across the pond. For one, I put on a dress! I haven’t worn one of these in roughly five months because they expose the legs too the wily Scottish wind (how is this the country where men decided to wear skirts sans knickers?!).

What did I get all dressed up fer, you ask? To walk two blocks from our flat, buy some delicious German bread from Konditormeister Falko, and come back home. 20 minutes later I was back in my sweats another tres chic outfit. We then proceeded to eat butter, jam and bread for the next hour (my first slices of bread since I started that diet thingy). My, it was delicious!

This is what it looked like on our two block walk (blue sky!):

We spent the rest of the afternoon reading, and I started a mini art project (I’m calling it Sheep in Party Hats. because, you know, the world needs more sheep in funny attire):

The scuba dress I donned to buy bread is from Primark — a shopping trip that happened in December, before I let my guilty conscience get the better of me. The dress and belt were only £17 -ish, so you can see why it will be a hard vice to back away from. I did get this ring on Friday that’s from a fair trade shop called One World Shop to make up for my sinful shopping:

So not a particularly productive Sunday, but isn’t that how they should be? What did you guys get up to? Any lazy plans for this weekend?

Oh and thank you for the sweet comments about our wedding! xoxox

—

Hi Cath!

How was your midterm?! It sometimes boggles my mind that we’ve been out of undergrad for so long. “Midterm” sounds like something 21 year olds worry about. Are they easier at 28?

It’s been so warm here (mid 50s!) that sometimes I keep the window open all afternoon! Lovely!

Miss you so much!

Love,

Lar

Want to know an Edinburgh secret? This place — this little defunct police box masquerading as a coffee stand — has some of the best curries and samosas Matt and I have ever tasted. The Bollywood Coffee Box has only been in Edinburgh for about as long as Matt and I have been here (six months — blimey, how time flies!). I figure that’s the only way there isn’t a massive line here every single day: it’s still an undiscovered gem.

Shamefully Matt and I walked by it for months always thinking “we should try some chai or one of her chickpea curries,” and then scurrying past to the warmth of our flat. Four months of wasted time and deprived taste buds tsk, tsk.

And it’s not just the delicious food that comes out of the Bollywood Coffee Box that makes visiting a delight, it’s the proprietor. Nutan is one of the sweetest, warmest people I’ve met in Edinburgh. Every time Matt and I visit, we’re left feeling lighter and happier. Oh and did I mention her fullsized curries (with saffron basmati rice) are only £3. Happy belly and happy mind for about $5!!! Deal of the century!

For those of you in Edinburgh, here are the details:
Where: Right off the Links where Bruntsfield Place and Bruntsfield Terrace meet
When: Every day, usually 11 am to 8 pm
What: Coffee, chai, snacks, curries (vegetarian and meat), samosas, pakoras, parathas

For those of you not in Edinburgh, when you come to visit, this is where we’ll take you for your first meal (so you don’t have to drink our green juice).

This is what we eat when we go to Nutan’s:

You hungry, yet? Whatchu waitin’ for? Get your bollywood booties over this way! Nutan will welcome you with the best smile in the world:

For any Dr. Who fans out there, Nutan really does own the TARDIS. I mean how else can you explain how she makes all these delicious foods in a space smaller than most people’s closets? Not possible! It would only make since that she’s the Doctor and instead of a sonic screwdriver she has a sonic spoon.

P.S. Is she not wearing the most perfect sweatshirt ever? This was not planned — just one of those serendipitous things that happen when the stars align.

—-

Dear Cath,

I can’t believe we discovered the Bollywood Coffee Box just two weeks after you guys left – argh! I know you aren’t the biggest curry fan, but I think you would love this. I can’t wait to introduce you and Troy the next time you are in town (August?! I hopes, I hopes!).

Love and Curry!

Lar

p.s. She was playing the Lagaan soundtrack the last time we were there! Though Nutan admitted to not loving the movie because there’s too much cricket in it. Another meeting of the minds.

I thought I was doing really well. I’ve been good about eating super healthy (still mainly gluten free and all vegan) and shopping at local shops for food. I’m trying to learn how to meditate and incorporate more yoga throughout the week. Matt and I have cut down our T.V. watching and actually sit around the table for dinner and talk. We eat sprouted mung beans and organic carrots when we can afford it. I was feeling all very back-patty.

And then.

I got this comment from some anonymous person in the previous post (Weekend Wear for Cold Climates):
http://www.guardian.co.uk/business/2008/jun/23/primark.children

Just a little link that I originally ignored because I thought it was spam (ahem,  Anonymous) and because I didn’t want to read about child labor and slums (such a downer for a Saturday night — feel free to cringe). I assume Anonymous linked it because I mentioned I got my Regata Gala sweatshirt from Primark.

For those of you stateside, Primark is like H&M and Target had a baby and then sold that baby for cheaper than Walmart prices. When Matt and I first wandered into Primark here in Edinburgh, our eyes lit up. We could actually afford fun, frivolous things again. What with traveling and trying to save for the future — again more back-patty action — we/I can’t really afford trips to Top Shop and Zara (£40/$63 for a blouse, no thank you!). At Primark we can buy fuzzy hot water bottles, armloads of clothes, cute necklaces, socks, scarves, pillows and belts for only £40. Heaven!

Now at the back of my mind I did have that niggly sensation (aka guilty conscience) because I knew if I was buying a necklace for £1, someone on the other end wasn’t making very much money. I’ve had the niggles when shopping at other places (Forever 21, H&M, Target, Walmart, etc.), but the sensation is never so great that I couldn’t tamp it down with. buying more cute stuff! For instance, this weekend Matt and I needed a pick-me up and we decided to just have a looksee at Primark. You can see what I bought here:

See that expression smiley with a twinge of guilt: Tank and hair feathers from Primark • Skinnies from Madewell (now I’m questioning you too, Madwell! Read here about their social responsibility) • Hunter Boots (how do you treat your rubber workers, Hunter? The only info I could find was that all Hunters used to be made in Scotland, originally Edinburgh –woohoo!– but they had to move shop overseas in 2008 due to financial pressure — bummer).

Two out of three ethically-made pieces here! June Shin necklace (jeweler based out of Atlanta, Georgia) • Snoozer Loser quarter-holder necklace (independent online boutique based out of New York) • Primark feather hair thingie (errr)

I went to upload these photos into an AsianCajun post about Edinburgh and springtime (it would have been a lot less wordy — sorry!), and that’s when I saw Anonymous’ link. Niggly turned into full on face-punch. Dang it! So I did a bit of (internet) research. It is true that since 2008, Primark has tried to stop child labor at their supplier’s factories in Bangladesh and India. But since then, very little has been done to change the terrible circumstances of a vast number of people working in the garment industry — all so I can buy a cute tank for £2.

I know other retailers are culpable, and probably the best bet for not buying something that supports subsistent living conditions for thousands is by visiting your local charity shop and thrift stores. For staples like tees and good fitting jeans and work clothes, I’m going to find companies that have invested in fair trade principles.

How about you? Do you guys have any great tips on where to shop (and not spend an arm and a leg) on ethically made clothing? Do you even care about this or does it just make you tired — another thing to do better! (I know that’s how I feel, but I really will attempt to adjust my shopping habits). Do leave comments about this! I’d love to hear tips on how to be a more conscientious consumer and if you guys struggle with this too.

Eeesh! That’s a lot for a Monday isn’t it? How ’bout some pretty crocuses to leave you feeling happy after all that serious talk:

p.s. I know this issue is much bigger and more complex than I covered in this single blog post. Please feel free to just add to the conversation in the comments below. I’ve been reading War of Want’s Love Fashion Hate Sweatshop campaign, and they suggest that you shouldn’t boycott your favorite high street stores because that means loss of jobs for those on the other end (already making too little to live on). Instead, they suggest you campaign for workers’ rights. Read more about how to do that here.

—-

Dear Kitcath,

Sorry to be so wordy lately! I really did just want to write a post about springtime in Edinburgh, and just couldn’t!

I’m looking up some good places in the UK to shop that won’t leave me with a guilty conscience. I feel like Decatur has so many great places: Mingei, Evolve Boutique, Green Mosaics, etc. I need to find the Edinburgh equivalents!

Love and Happy Monday!

Lar

I know it might be hard to trust style advice from someone who has ‘fessed up to her love of sweat pants, but I think I found a perfect winter weekend outfit for Scotland. Oh, did I mention it involves a sweat shirt? Wait it gets better! It involves one of those sweat shirts that says some sort of fakey sporty thing on it. For instance, did you know (says my sweatshirt) that I was on the varsity regatta rowing team in high school? In the photo above, I’m daydreaming about all the time spent on the river and at regatta galas those were the days.(I just googled “what is a regatta?”).
Psst.Cath and I attended a public high school that wasn’t anywhere near a river, or boats, or galas and I’ve always had a preternatural dislike of things involving teams and water. and paddles, for that matter.

But I love a cheap dark gray sweatshirt even if it makes blatantly untrue claims about my prowess in high school and the water. So I bought it and wore it this way:

Mendacious sweatshirt from Primark ($10-ish!) • thrifted jean button-up • Next skinny jeans • Frye boots

I’m pointing to my head in the photo to the right because I just got my first hair cut since June (when Cath and I went together to get twin cuts and donate our hair). I’m going back to the salon in a few weeks to have my hair lightened organically (no smelly chemicals). It’s Edinburgh’s only organic hair salon (I didn’t know hair salons could be organic until I googled it). I’m trying to go as chemical-free as possible with my beauty supplies.

Anywhoodle, what are you guys up to this weekend? Any Regatta Galas (or is that a summer thing)? Oh! And you still have a chance to enter our Shabby Apple giveaway (just click here for details) if it’s before Sunday evening. I’m crossing my fingers for you!

—–

Dear Kitcath,

I found this at Waitrose today. It’s like the UK version of the Larabars! It’s delicious — a bit fruitier than the Larabars with smaller bits of nuts. On the back it has a union jack and says “Gleefully Made in Great Britain.” I’ll stock up on some for when you next come to visit.

Can’t wait to skype chat tomorrow (tomorrow? Sunday? which is best?).

Love,

Lar

(Me with about 15 pounds of groceries on my back and Matt with about 35 pounds- ahhh true love!)

Not owning a car in Edinburgh is no biggie. The bus system here is great and the entire city is really very manageable by foot. There are even trains and buses that take you to nearly every little town in Scotland that your heart desires. But even with this cornucopia of public transport at my disposal, I still sometimes fantasize about my gas-guzzling Chevy that I left in the states.

Starting to eat an uber-healthy diet has changed our lifestyle in a number of ways: no more cookie time; no more quick stop to the local fish n chipee when our tummies growl; and no more hopping on a bus to Asda or toddling a few blocks down to Tesco. In order to be able to afford all this fruit and veg that we are eating, Matt and I now walk about 1.5 miles round trip to an inexpensive green grocer.

(On Lar: snood from Vivid Boutique in Decatur • thrifted shirt from Armstrongs in Edinburgh • Next pink skinnies • Hunter Boots wedge wellies) • hiking backpack is from a random outdoorsy store in Murica, Spain circa 2003 • Eugenia Kim hat • Primark coat and gloves)

I like to feel all noble and Lance Armstrongy because we are walking to buy healthy food, but really I just get whiny and grumpy-pants. I pine for the days of yore in Atlanta when I could drive .75 miles to my grocery store, fill up my trunk (or do I mean boot?) with tons of food, and then drive home and congratulate myself for.erm. finally going grocery shopping, with a nice cookie or two. or five. Horrible I know! Bad for the planet, bad for my health, bad for my cookie jar (always depleted).

I would like to think that if I did have a car in Scotland (and could drive manual, on the wrong side of the road!) that I would never use it except for romantic weekend excursions to castles and lochs. But I know that if I could, I would drive nearly everywhere — especially when it involves totting 20 cucumbers, 5 sweet potatoes, 2 bags of kale, innumerous cans of chick peas, jars of almond butter, peppers, squash, romaine, onions, avocados, etc.

(Daily green juice: cucumber, romaine, kale, apple and celery. not very good for cookie dipping if you were wondering)

The annoying part of all of this is that because I’m eating all these veggies and whole grains, I have a lot more energy and walking back up a hill with a hiking backpack full of veg isn’t as much of a problem as you would think. Sure, I gripe and groan the whole way (sorry, Matteo!), but — blast it all!– this eating healthy thing is working.

This above pic is actually a new favorite recipe of ours. We feel so decadent eating it: roasted sweet potato, black beans (cooked with onion and garlic and some veggie stock), lightly steamed kale, and kiwi (yes, kiwi!) salsa on corn tortillas – soooo good!

—-

Don’t forget to enter Cath’s give-away, lovely readers! To find out how to win a pair of these awesome Feiyue sneaks, see this blog post (the one below). These sneaks were favored by Shaolin monks and now loved by Parisian hipsters. I feel these would go well with my new active lifestyle, non?

—-

Dear Cath,

Do you find yourself more grumpy on this diet? I’m trying to over-come some of it with some ommmss and journaling, but it’s so much more satisfying to gripe. Why is that?

You should definitely try that sweet potato meal above though! It’s one of the only recipes that isn’t too salady and I don’t complain a jot when I eat it.

Love,

Lar

p.s. This was a photo from yesterday morning out of our kitchen window. Pretty ooo lala – non?