Category Archives: Edinburgh

Dressing Like a Danish Crime Detective


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The Danish television crime drama “The Killing” hasn’t made it stateside, but British readers probably know the show and will roll their eyes at hearing yet again about Sarah Lund’s famous jumpers (that’s “sweaters” for you/us Americans).

I’m not a huge fan of crime detective shows unless it’s quaint or period (e.g. “Pushing Daisies” or “Poirot”). Too much crazy psychopath nonsense gives me the hibbie jibbies. But “The Killing” is totally worth the mind-shivers because of its kick-ass, female lead who wears these awesome sweaters/jumpers:


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Sarah Lund (see above right) is the crime-solving Danish bad ass/leading lady in “The Killing.” Her character isn’t Carrie Bradshaw. She wears the same sweater/jumper nearly every episode (she has 2-3 she rotates in the first two seasons), but it’s because of these sweaters that she has become a style icon. In fact The Guardian listed her as #1 on their best dressed celeb list of 2011.


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You might be thinking “Sweater, schmeater (or jumper, schwumper) — who cares?! Wearing a woolly knitted pattern on your torso does not a style icon make.” I think it goes something like this: It’s winter time and cold and windy. You wear lots of layers, but still walk around shivering. You know why? Cuz you don’t have a 100% Danish wool jumper that not only keeps you warm, but makes you feel like an intensely-focused, crime-kicking lady detective that doesn’t care what others think. In fact, you care so little, you wear the same outfit for 10 days straight without showering. It’s the ultimate in I-don’t-give-a-s*&t clothing. And who doesn’t want more of that in their closet/lives?

I’m still taking showers regularly and have only worn my sweater once, but, yes-indeedy, I now own what I call my “Sarah Lund Jumper” for those days when I feel like “ooo sooo cold {shake, shake}” and need to feel like “F*&%, the cold and that stupid guy who cut me off in line at Tesco!”

Here I am in all my bad-assery. Yeah, I’d scare the pants off all those bad guys:

I got this 100% wool, Danish jumper at a lovely vintage shop here in Edinburgh called Godiva for £25. Mine is real-deal Danish wool, but it’s not the actual sweater/jumper Sarah Lund wears. Lund has a $300 version by Gudrun & Gudrun. It’s self-cleaning and much softer than my itchy wooly job, but I think you can kick ass in either version.

So ladies and gents, lesson learned today: buy a crime-fighting jumper and you too can run after bad guys and solve intricate crimes or, you know, at least give that Tesco line-cutter guy the evil eye with Danish aplomb.

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Dear Cath,

I’m so bummed we didn’t get to watch this together when you were here. I still hope you guys can get your hands on a copy! I wonder if the sweater would work as well in Atlanta. Even in the winter I think the humidity would take down anyone wearing a Scandinavian jumper faster than any psychopathic serial killer, so maybe don’t try this until you come visit me again.

Skypie date this weekend?

xoxoxoxo,

Lar

 

Some More Thrifting

So the best place to get natural light in our flat is by the bay window. That also happens to be the coldest spot in our flat. The glass acts less like a barrier to cold weather and more like a conduit (“See these cute cracks, wind? Just sneak through here!” Damn you, window). It was roughly 3°C (that’s about 37 °F), so I would guess our bay window area is about 4°C with wind gusts of 10 mph. Hence the lovely I’m-so-freakin’-cold pose:

Another classic pose (“Matt, I swear I can actually see the wind whistling through the window frame”), but I had to include it because it shows the actual gorgeous color of this paisley shirt jacket I picked up at vintage clothing store Armstrongs the other day.

Jacket from Armstrongs • H&M turtleneck • Next pink trousers • Frye boots • thrifted leather bag (Finders Keepers, Atlanta) • necklace from Snoozer Loser

Isn’t that a lovely use of paisley? I think someone hand made this shirt/jacket because there isn’t a label and certain bits look hand-stitched.

I added my Eugenia Kim hat and snood before piling on my jacket and coat (four layers!):

Below is an outfit photo of my kitchen chair. S/he decided to wear my other Armstrongs purchase: a floral printed shirt. I personally wouldn’t wear it open like that, and I would pair it with skinnies instead of a beige pillow, and put my hair in a top knot. To each their own, Chair.

Oh and look at our lovely prezie last weekend. More snow! Snow, I love. Wind, screw you! As I type this the wind is attempting to batter down my kitchen window and is succeeding in giving me palpitations.

Sorry AsianCajuns has been so Lar heavy this week. Cath has been wrapping up a hectic week at work and getting ready to come visit us – yipppeeee! I promise we’ll have more Cath posts post-Paris!

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Kitcath!!!!! Pastries together in Paris in just THREE days. THREEEEE!!!

Edinburgh is Sparkly — Even Our Occupiers

Here’s another postie to get you into the holiday spirit via Edinburgh! The public lights are especially beautiful — my photos don’t do them justice:

(Below) Isn’t this so cheery? You can grab a piece of pizza, hop on a stationary, vintage, double-decker and gaze at the castle in the distance (can you see it under the lights — it’s silhouetted against the dusky sky):

And I love looking into the shop windows. Most of the stores would make mincemeat of the contents of my wallet (ewww), so I make do with pressing my nose to the glass and taking covert pictures:

I love this combo of minty green, white and gold. I’m soooo stealing that for my decor next year — I even have the white owl already from this year’s loot. Christmas score!

And now this is most impressive. We still have occupiers in Edinburgh! It has been incredibly windy (up to 90 mph wind gusts) and snowy and rainy, and our occupiers are still here! They have an informative and frequently-updated website if you want to read more about the them.

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Dear Kitcath,

FOUR more days. Matt and I just figured out the perfect distribution of blankets between our two sleeping areas to keep us all warm and snug in our flat. Your room does have the drafty chimney, but it has lots of twinkly fairy lights to compensate for that.

FOUR!!!!

xoxoxo,

Larbar

The Scottish National Portrait Gallery

I like to consider myself an armchair art historian. Art history was my major in undergrad and I love museums. Museum’s are my Tiffany’s (lucky for Matt that the art isn’t for sale): “If I could find a real-life place that’d make me feel like Tiffany’s, then – then I’d buy some furniture and give the cat a name!”*

So I was ecstatic to find out that the Scottish National Portrait Gallery, which had been closed for extensive renovations for two and a half years, had just reopened this past week! (I spent a summer as an intern at the National Portrait Gallery in Washington D.C. during the six years that it was closed for renovations and always felt kind of cheated).

I love the building. I’m usually not a big fan of neo-Gothic, but I feel like I’m entering Highclere Castle (aka Downton Abbey or Toleigh Towers) when I walk through the doors.

It’s a small space for a national gallery, but I think that makes for a nice change. You certainly don’t have a chance to get art fatigue or be overwhelmed, and it gives you time to enjoy all the historic, tartan-clad peoples. Here are a few of my favorites:

So, not all are tartan-clad. I call this one Mr. Fancy Pants/Trousers (studious art historian that I am). His actual name is James Hamilton (painted by Daniel Mytens in 1629). Just look at James’ heels (and spurs!). Chanel boots have nothing on his footwear. I think I’m quite fond of the 17th century just based on this portrait. Men could wear high-heeled slouchy boots and silver lamé. My kind of look for sure.

Here’s another nice looking man. and, in the inset, what he looks like dressed as a lady:

This is Prince Charles Edward Stuart (aka Bonnie Prince Charlie). In order to avoid his captors (one of many such daring-dos), he dressed as Flora MacDonald’s maid. Very convincing don’t you think? In fact, I don’t even think he needed the dress. (Flora is below):

I like Flora’s more feminine version of plaid: give it some bows, ruffles and balloon sleeves with arm slits. Lovely! Why should the menfolk have all the sartorial fun?

For those of you less fond of tartan, how about some more contemporary Scots, such as John Smith:

Don’t you just love his glasses? Mr. Smith led the Labour Party in the 90s — which of course I knew without reading the sign next to his head.

Sometimes the portraits come to life and join in a parade outside the gallery  (for the opening weekend festivities):

And here is one parting image of the lobby all dressed up for Christmas. Lovely, isn’t it?

Thanks for all the kind words on my Christmas decor, lovelies! I hope you have a fabuloso weekend!

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Dear Kitcath,

I wasn’t sure if you guys will be so overly-museumed after Paris, so we might not make it to the NPG. Did you remember I tried to get a job here when we were studying abroad in Edinburgh? Apparently I have a thing for portraits in general: talking about them and drawing them.

EIGHT more days! Yippeeeeee!!!!

Love,

Lar

*Holly Golightly

Christmas Decor in Edinburgh for Tres Cheap!

I am sooo excited. I get to see Cath (and my parents and Troy!) in just nine (NINE!) days! Woohoo!

I’m not sure if we’ve told you, but we’re all meeting in Paris for about a week, and then they are all coming here to Edinburgh for Christmas!

I’m poorer than poor at the moment because of all the costs for the upcoming Paris hootenanny, but I wanted the flat to look and feel Christmasy for everyone. So I had to use a bit of ingenuity and creative muscle, but I pulled off some Christmas decor for £22 ($35) including a tree (it’s teeny, ’tis true). Some of the items I got free courtesy of my oh-so-generous mother who sent a box full of goodies. She bought me twin versions of what she used in her house (you can see them in this post).

As you can see, I went for a rather masculine look this year: pink, sparkles, white glitter blubs (can’t get anything less practical than glitter baubles!). Really I “blame” it on our fireplace covering. How are you supposed to decorate with a light gray, light pink, and gold tiled fireplace?

This tree stated “2 ft.” on the packaging, but I think after years of following the metric system they confused 2 feet for something else: 20 centimeters perhaps?

Oh and look! I decorated outside for you guys too:

Edinburgh looks even more gorgeous with a dusting of snow. I’m all for it, Edi, but you have to promise to not make it impossible for my family to get here. I’ll stop complaining about your windy, wintry ways if you promise not to ice too much. Deal?

I hope your holiday season isn’t too busy, everyone! I know Cath is uber busy and stressed leading up to her departure to Paris. We’ll have to make sure to de-stress with copious amounts of butter and chocolate.

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Dear Kitcath,

Here is Peckham’s storefront, so you and Troy can take a gander at what sorts of beer they carry:

Matt tried the one on the top left: beet red it was!

I can’t wait until we can go beer hunting together (well, beer hunting and charity shopping — good combo, I think). Now as for American football, that might be trickier to find. How does Troy feeling about curling?

9 DAYS!!!!!!

LOVE,

Larbar

Exploring Edinburgh: Edinburgh Castle

Want to come on a touristy adventure with me? How about a trip to Edinburgh’s centerpiece, the Castle! Isn’t it loverly? It looks exactly how you imagine castles to look in fairy tales. There isn’t a moat (at one time there was a loch), but it sits up on a tall mound. Squint hard enough and you can almost see legions of shiny knights (or maybe that’s just more tourists?) cantering on horseback up to the gates.

The castle walls enclose a number of large and small stone buildings: a chapel, a war memorial, regimental museums, old prison cells, the old great hall, etc. It’s more like a little village, some of it dating back to 600 AD.

Here’s the view looking down from the Castle rock to Leith and the Firth of Forth to the north of the city:

Here’s a nice little cozy nook in the great hall:

My favorite bit is the reconstructed prison cells. They didn’t look as horrible and dungeon-like as you would think, and war prisoners were fed pretty well (the table shows weekly rations of bread, cheese, ale, and beef):

The prisoners dressed quite well, quite dapper in fact:

Here’s the view from the front of the castle look down the Royal Mile (Old Town’s main street). Follow it down to the bottom of the hill and you’ll run right into Parliament and the Royal Palace. I LOVE the Palace even more than this lovely castle. The Palace has Mary Queen of Scots intrigue and a gorgeous canopy bed, so that’s more my speed. But I still enjoy taking a stroll around the more masculine castle whenever I can (especially when the tickets are free as they are for St. Andrew’s Day).

As you can see in the photo above, Edinburgh is incredibly tourist-friendly even during the Scottish winter! Get on a plane, already! I’ll take you to the Palace when you get here!

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Dear Kitcath,

Did we even go to the castle when we were students? It might have been less pricey for us because of the Historic Scotland passes. I definitely remember the palace more vividly but again that’s probably due to the whole gorgeous interiors thing it has going on.

I can’t wait! Do you realize we have 2 weeks today until we’ll be in Paris together?!! Yippppeeee!!!

Good luck on your paper this weekend! Hope we can skype tomorrow!

LOVE you,

Larbar

Charity Shops

In the states we have Salvation Army and Good Will. The UK has Oxfam, Cancer Research, British Heart Foundation, Red Cross, Save the Children, Cancer Lung Research, Barnardos. . .

Our neighborhood (and many others in Edinburgh) are swarming with charity shops — it’s wonderful! When I first moved here, I imagined that charity shops were full of beautiful old tea sets, silk scarves, and gorgeous vintage clothes for a couple of pounds. It’s not quite that charming. Most of the clothes are just a few years old from Marks and Sparks or H&M, and the tea sets are from the 1980s, not the 1880s, but they are still such wonderful places to shop.

For instance, that sweater I’m wearing in the top photo is lovely and soft angora that I got for £3 ($4.75-ish). Nice, eh? The novel is also from a charity shop for just £1 ($1.65-ish). Cheaper than most used book stores I’ve been to.

We’ve also bought quite a few baskets for about 10p (15 cents) each — much cheaper than the mecca-of-cheap Ikea! One basket houses our keys and is protected by Matt’s tweed hats:

The other holds our onions, watched over by Jamie Oliver (recipe book also found in a charity shop):

Once in a while you find the odd little gem, like this illustrated book from the 1950s about the British countryside:

The illustrations are a little strange (adds to the charm, right?) but I hope Graham W. Reid enjoyed them in 1949-50. Well done, Graham:

Shopping at these charity shops kind of makes up for our shame at going to Asda/Walmart on a weekly basis, right?

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Dearest Kitcath,

I was trying to remember and I don’t think we went to the charity shops that often when we lived here 8 years ago. I know you lived right by all those ones on S. Clerk street, but I think we would only pop in once and a while. I can’t think of a single thing I have from them, in fact! I feel kind of shame-faced that I always trotted down to Armstrongs or just the high street shops. We’ll definitely go to the ones by my flat when you are here in a few weeks!

I’m so glad you can buy alcohol on Sundays now. I always thought it strange we couldn’t. I still need to make sure we have our fridge stocked for you and Troy when you guys get here!

LOVES,

Larbar

 

 

 

 

Suburbia in Scotland!

I hope our American readers had a lovely Thanksgiving and that everyone else had a beautiful weekend! Matteo and I staved off homesickness by doing nothing turkey-day-ish. We had friends over for Tex-Mex (not something you can easily get over here) and then headed to the German Christmas market in the middle of town. It would have all made a brilliant post if I had thought about bringing my camera along — drrr!

Instead, I offer you the much less photogenic Saturday adventure we had — a foray into the wilds of the Edinburgh suburbs!

Matt and I are hoping to cut our weekly food budget down a bit by shopping at Asda. For those of you who don’t know, Asda is owned by Walmart (I know, shudder, shudder). We rarely went to Walmart in the states, but are happy to take a bus to Asda (and the burbs) here if it means saving a few quid. Cost of living is higher here than in Atlanta, and in order to afford going to fancy places in Edinburgh (pastry shops! castles!) we have to lower the bar by genuflecting to Walmart/Asda’s lower price point.

Growing up in American suburbia and watching Masterpiece Theater (my intro to all things British), I thought the UK was made up entirely of beautiful farm land and quaint little villages. And that does very much exist, but so does mega box stores with large car parks (i.e. parking lots). Shocking! Don’t all Europeans use public transport or bikes, and buy their daily groceries at little local shops?!

I know that the death of mom and pop shops and other independent groceries is a sad loss. But I think most people can’t afford shopping entirely at little local places, especially in-town where prices are higher. How about a balance? Support independent shops while simultaneously shopping where it’s cheaper so that you can afford those independent places as often as possible. I still feel a little guilty and bashful for “going suburban” while living here, but my wallet seems somewhat relieved.

One difference between Edinburgh’s suburb and much of the American suburbs is the public transport. It seems most people do drive to this Asda just outside of Edinburgh’s city center, but the bus is there for those who don’t have a car. It runs every 15 minutes and costs about $2 one way. Without the bus we would have to walk about an hour one way, and then back again laden with groceries. (The photo below is taken from the top deck of the bus sitting in the front row of seats — my favorite spot):

Even our little five block wall home (uphill! in gale-force wind!) with our groceries bags and backpacks nearly outdid me (the photo on the left is a much more accurate depiction of how I look after walking around the city):

Outfit details: J.Crew puffer coat • Eugenia Kim hat (stayed on my head even when the wind rammed me into a stone wall) • Land’s End sweater • Scarf from Vivid Boutique in Decatur • Skinnies from Next • Hunter wedge, lace-up wellies (I got them via Shopbop earlier this year, but you can still find them online and on sale at Neiman Marcus!)

I live and die by these Hunter wellies. I’ve always loved the look of the classic Hunter wellie, but never was convinced they would look good on me (tall rubber boots on a shorter frame), when I saw these shorter ones with a wedge, I went all google-eyed. They keep my toesies warm and dry and are quite easy to walk in.

Speaking of battling the wintry elements here in Scotland, I just purchased this awesome scarf from fellow blogger Laura (Blog of Worldly Delights) from her new Etsy shop. All of her items are so cute and so reasonably priced — do check out her etsy store. I can’t wait to wear Sly Pete around Edinburgh and make the Fantastic Mr. Fox whistling noise.

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Dearest Kitcath,

It was so nice to “see” you on Thanksgiving, but made me miss you guys terribly! I’m so glad you will be here in just a few weeks -eeeee!!!

I think winter has finally come to Edinburgh, so I think your giant puffer coat from Eddie Bauer is going to be perfect. Don’t worry about not being “fashionable,” I’ll be right along there with you! I’m trying to not go out shopping so that we can spend a bit at Merci in Paris. I need to reread the Haute World’s post on Merci (found it here ;)).

Hope we can skype chat tonight! Good luck on your paper!

LOVE,

Larbar

Eating Like An American — Happy Thanksgiving!


On Lar: new red beret from Debenhams • vintage scarf from Stefan’s in Atlanta • thrifted gap shirt • Blank black cords • Frye boots

(Apparently I like to dress franco-phoney when I go to American places.)  You like our new clock (above my head)? It’s from Pound Stretcher and slows down about every two days or so.

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Matteo and I stumbled on Katie’s Diner on our way to the pub one night, and thought we should try it out. It looks a little more bistro-y than diner-y, but its menu claims to be American: steak and potatoes, hamburgers, and a few other main courses.

I have to say Katie’s reminds me more of American places circa 1989 or so. We started with breaded mushroom caps:

And each got a burger with fries for our main course (iceburg lettuce included!). It made me a little nostalgic for my childhood — pre low-carb and/or gluten-free diets:

To top it off, a delicious, buttery apple crumble and vanilla ice cream!

I missed you, 1980s/90s Americana! I just didn’t expect to find you in Scotland of all places!

Oh and I meant to update those of you interested in treacle when I mentioned it a few weeks ago. Turns out that treacle isn’t some wonderful sugary concoction to be eaten by the likes of Alice (in Wonderland), but just the British version of black strap molasses! I was appalled. Something called treacle shouldn’t be so nutrient rich or taste like iron. but it does:

I’ve been eating it with my oats and nuts every morning to offset my baked-goods and burgers that I eat later in the day:

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Dearest Kitcath,

Two things:

1) This is what your package looked like when it arrived! Came at such a perfect time — feeling a little blue that day, missing everyone. I’ve actually got the Vivid Boutique candle lit now and we plan to use another packet of the taco seasoning tomorrow night (for our non-Thanksgiving Thanksgiving):

2) Should I get this as an early giftie to myself from Shopbop via Madewell? A good size for carrying around french pastries and museum guides whilst we stroll arm and arm down the Champs Elysees, non?

(edit: Nov. 24 • 10 am BST) I just saw this in my email, maybe a sign? (Even if I don’t plan to spend that much ;)):

Miss you, Kitcath!!!

xoxox,

Larbar

Edinburgh’s Konditormeister

That (above), my friends is a delicious raisin brioche made by Falko Konditormeister. What is a Konditormeister? Only my favorite kind of person in the whole wide world — in any language — a master pastry chef! In this case, a German man by the name of Falko.

Not only do we live by some of the best French bakeries in Edinburgh, we also happen to have Herr Falko’s delicious establishment just a few blocks away from our flat. It is really an incredibly lucky thing that Matt and I can’t afford a car here. Without the walking we have to do, we would both turn into butter balls — happily munching away on croissants, pain au chocolats, and apple strudel until we collapsed from simultaneous heart attacks.

Here is a photo of my favorite handsome and svelte mans sitting in Falko Konditormeister’s bakery:

His cappuccino:

His Swiss toast (béchamel sauce, ham, swiss cheese on delicious kondistormeister bread):

This is what I wore to eat my butter delicious baked goods (I forgot to take pics of myself there – so I’m actually standing in my kitchen. Please note the very yellow walls, which are more orange in person):

Thrifted shirt from Finders Keepers in Atlanta • Citizens of Humanity skirt • Shuropody boots*

There’s a close-up of my shirt. It’s one of my favorites: it’s got this slightly Asian fan motif going on, and I love the colors.

*Shuropody boots: I have no idea how to pronounce the name of this store (Shoe Ro Pody? Shoe Rope-dy), but I stumbled upon it on Rose Street and thought it looked like one of those places where you buy orthopedic shoes. Sounds like a weird choice for someone who used to swear by 5-inch heels, but ya’ll, I is a-getting old, and walking around everywhere in Edinburgh is killing my poor, abused feetsies. And really, Shuropody (say it three times fast) had some cute things, plus they had a sale going! I needed another pair of boots because I’m wearing down the other two pairs I brought from the States. These newbies are lovely and warm and –gasp!– only two inches high. One day when I no longer live in a city of cobblestone, without a car, I might consider those 5-inchers again.

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Dear Kitcath,

It’s weird but I really haven’t seen much appeal in the High Street shopping since I’ve been here. Does that mean I am getting too old for trendy trends? I just can’t muster the strength to spend £30 on a cheaply made shirt with birds on it. Maybe it just means I’m too “poor” and should stick to the charity shops (£3 for an angora sweater- yes!). Maybe I’m just becoming thrifty and Scottish? One can always hope.

Anyways, I would like to save my hard-earned cash for some independent boutiques around here — though those seem a bit spendy too (but worth it right?), and to travel and see you more often. I’ll keep you abreast of any fluctuations in my shopping habits and what I discover.

Love/Miss You Muchos,

Larbar