Category Archives: Edinburgh

Climbing Arthur’s Seat: I’m Outdoorsy-ish!

Anybody who knows me, knows I’m not outdoorsy. I love nature: the sun, grass between the toesies, beautiful flowers — love that part of nature. I’m less cool with the bugs and the rain and the hard ground, and the peeing in the woods. I can do it, but I’ll be grumpy. I’ve been camping with some great people, and have had a lot of fun, but if I had to choose I would make my s’mores around the campfire and then hightail it to the nearest hotel for the night.

Reason #57 for Why I Love Scotland. Just because you might not think of yourself as outdoorsy doesn’t mean you can’t go hillwalking. You don’t even have to wear proper attire. No one will look at you sideways if you try to scamper up a rainy steep hill in ballet flats (okay, I looked askance at a girl who was doing that — mainly because I was jealous I was wearing big ole hiking boots). Everyone here is “outdoorsy” without being outdoorsy. Little kids, grannies, everyone walks up and down hills. hills that Atlanta Lar would have called mountains.

Hills are unavoidable here, so that might be one reason. But you could skirt around most of them if you tried. Not for these hard walking peeps. They make hillwalking a national pastime. And you can do it with such ease even if you are city slicker.

For instance, this gorgeous dead volcanic mass called Arthur’s Seat is located smack dab in the middle of Edinburgh. Matt and I climbed it our first weekend in town. We waited toward the top for the clouds to clear and — wowza!– gorgeous views of the city for miles and miles.

I’m terribly out of shape (I get out of breath walking up a hill to our local grocery store here), but it’s okay. Here’s another tradition I love about hillwalking. Afterward you reward yourself with a nice strong cuppa and a biscuit (i.e. cookie).

—–

Dear Kitcath,

Remember when we climbed Arthur’s Seat our first day in Edinburgh? I kind of think that’s when we first fell in love with Edi, don’t you? I so wish I could relive that first day with you! I think it’s so funny that mom was so worried about us studying abroad in Spain and falling in love with a Spanish man. Little did she know we would fall with a Scottish. city. Love at first sight, I’d say.

I miss you so much! I’ll have real internets tomorrow (knock wood) – so we can video chat again! YIPPEEEE!!!

LOVE,

Larbar

Drinkypoos at Roseleaf: My Type of Pub

I’m starting to believe that the more cups of tea you drink, the more British you become. If that’s the case, I’m about 60-70 bags more British since arriving here 22 days ago. I’ve always liked tea (and love a glass of sweet tea home in Atlanta) so it’s not much of a learning curve. Cath and I were Anglophiles/Scotophiles at an early age thanks to our mom’s proclivity for watching British TV on PBS when we were growing up (if we had had cable, we would have been entirely different people).

So, even though this transition period has been hard (I had quite a mean spurt of blues last night — missing my family and friends), there are so many things that more than make up for it in this lovely country of tea and crumpets and cheery pubs!

Matt and I stumbled upon Roseleaf in Leith our first week in town. You can just make out their green pub sign behind my head in these photos:

Outfit details: Madewell jacket and jeans • thfited blouse • Frye boots • canvas tote from a Japanese mag bought in San Francisco’s Japantown

Now why was Roseleaf such a site-for-weary-traveler’s-eyes?

Well, to start, we didn’t realize it was such a popular place until we stumbled in on a Saturday afternoon and all the tables were reserved. Never fear! The very kind Scottish barman cleared a teeny table for us (below: not our teeny table):

We got to share our perfect-for-two table with a fringed lampshade lamp and these two jolly trash bin (me thinks?) salt and pepper shakers:

We started with some tea/drinky poos:

And then we had a gander at their food menu — oh my!

Can you guess what I got? (Like my subtle highlighting of the menu?) And this is what the Roseleafer looked like in person:

I promise the vegetarian haggis (lower left corner) was delicious especially mixed around with my potato pancake, egg and tomato!

Matt was slightly more reserved than I and went for the potato stack: potato pancakes, bacon, egg — also delicious (and a great suggestion for those who just had a slightly nauseated feeling when reading “vegetarian haggis”):

We no longer live just a few minutes walk from Roseleaf (huge sigh!), but I will journey out there as often as I can. Look they even bring you your bill in an old tobacco tin – loves it!

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Dear Kitcath,

I am enamored of your hat, and do want one very much like it. Though I’m still concerned that brimmed hats are wont to blow off heads in Edinburgh’s gales. I actually haven’t seen too many ladies with cute hats on here, and I’m guessing that’s why. Hoods, yes. Umbrellas, yes. Dapper fodoras, non. Will keep you posted.

Also, thanks for trying to cheer me up last night! I ended up going out and buying two mags: British Vogue (Rhianna cover) and a BBC Food Mag. The latter might seem like a strange choice, but I really need to start wrapping my head around British recipes. What does 400 ml of something look like?! Also, it came with a magenta spatula, so I was sold.

Miss you terribly! Will take you guys to Roseleaf when you’re here for Christmas!!! Yipppeees!

xoxoxoxoxo,

Larbar

 

Our “New” Flat/Apartment

Why helloooo again, everyone! It’s so nice to hear from you guys again! Thank you, internet gods!

It seems I’m not the only one “borrowing” my neighbor’s wifi because in the evenings it slows to a crawl. So Matt bought me one of those dongle-thingies (sorry, I’m such a ludite!) and now I have not-too-slow internet without the sense of guilt. Woohoo!

Oh right, on to more interesting things — our “new” flat. I say “new” because it was built in 1896! I’ve never lived in anything so old. In fact I spent most of my life in an 1980s home, so this is pretty fantastico in my opinion. So the bathroom is a little tiny (thanks for all your tips by the way!), it certainly makes up for it in every other way.

We have tall ceilings, beautiful crown molding (drooool – my favorite!), a huge kitchen with a lovely intensely green view of our shared garden/courtyard. It’s even got this very strangely tiled fireplace either from the 30s or 80s, I can’t decide which. I also can’t decide what the owners of the flat at the time were thinking when they picked the tile (Gray, pink and gold! Winning combo every time!). It’s actually growing on me, to be honest.


ps- Doesn’t that vase thingie look suspiciously like a funerary urn? Our landlord left it, and Matt and I just worked up the courage over the weekend to peek in. No ashes! Phew! Still slightly sinister, non? I moved it into the box room (We have a box room! I feel so pre-1940s British!).

Ah, but one of the real treasures of the flat is that it’s furnished! Considering we only took clothes and toiletries with us, this is a huge relief. Instead of being stuck with loads of Ikea furniture (what I’ve lived with the past 5-10 years), we have some lovely pieces from our landlord that look like they are straight out of Jeeves and Wooster. I’m still waiting for Stephen Fry to wake us up with breakfast in bed.

We also lucked out with not having too many flights of stairs to climb at the end of the day. We are on the second floor (third floor in American speak). A few flats we looked at before finding this gem have been on the 4th/5th floor and I feel like I’m climbing Everest.

These photos were taken about an hour after we moved in, so forgive the lack of decor. I am an intense nester, so changes have happened already, and more are on their way. However, I do have a few crimps in my decor dreams:

1) Money — dang it! Why do I never seem to have enough. Plane tickets, visas, food. must you be so costly?

2) Existing decor. I didn’t show you guys the less-than-lovely purple and teal loveseats.

3) Plaster walls. I can’t really go poking lots of holes in the plaster without making much of a mess — so I’ll have to get creative with hanging implements.

4) Trying not to acquire too much. I don’t know if it’s from months of purging while I was prepping for this trip, or the fact that all I have now fits in two suitcases, but it actually makes me anxious to shop for new things. Even though we signed a year lease, I still kind of feel like I should be ready to bolt with two suitcases if need be. Weird, right? I hope I get over that soon.

5) Being clueless. In my new surrounds I have no idea where to buy my crafty basics: spray paint, masking tape, measuring tape, thrifted lamps, slipcovers (apparenty, not a popular concept over here) etc.

Okay, I’ll stop my mumblings, but I warn you that there might be future posts on my nesting habits — hope you don’t mind. I tend to get more domestic when I go through a wonky transition (like moving countries).

Happy Tuesday/Wednesday/Hump Day!!

xoxo,
Lar

How to Stay Warm in Scotland

Hellooo blanket/scarf! You were made for dreary, cold weather. You are warm  and snugly around my neck or wrapped around my arms while I drink a cuppa. Scottish autumn/winter (really no difference), you have met your match!

This blanket/scarf is from Shopbop. I needed a bit of therapy after our stressful weeks of settling-in, and I did a little happy dance when I realized they would ship to my brand new Scottish flat in just a few days.

Can you tell from these pics I’m spending too much time home alone. Being a graphic designer working from home can be a bit isolating. particularly when you are wont to go spend your hard earned money on pastries, scones and tea (and maybe some clothes) whenever you step outside.


Madewell jacket • Spun scarf • thrifted purse • Blank black cords • Hunter wellies

I try to wear my blanket/scarf more responsibly when I’m out of doors (and in public). This has been my uniform since I’ve been here: layers of jackets/coats, scarf (the bigger the better), skinny pants and boots.

Once winter really hits (which we’ve been forewarned that it’s going to be a bad one), I’ll just add more layers: tights under trousers, coat on top of jackets, woolly socks under wellies.

I’m really selling you guys on the whole visit-me-in-Scotland thing, aren’t I?

—-

Dear Kitcath,

Had to include this photo for you. Can you believe it’s been seven years since we lived in this city together? It feels wrong to be in Edinburgh without you — it definitely loses much of its sparkle for me! We spent a lot of last weekend on South Clerk Street, and it makes me miss you extra mucho!

Two Nations Divided by A Common Language

Hellooo Lovelies!

Well, it’s officially been 2.5 weeks since Matt and I left Atlanta. We are moved into our own flat – yippeee! We still are figuring out how to use the bus system, how to coax the lovely people at the Royal Bank of Scotland into giving us a bank account, and setting up internet in our new flat (thanks, unknowingly generous neighbor, for letting us “borrow” your wifi for the time being!).

Things have been a bit stressful during this settling-in period, and Matt and I keep thinking how hard this move would be if the native language here wasn’t English. That said, most of the time when someone says something to me with a heavy Scottish brogue or even a distinctive English accent I say, oh-so-eloquently, “Huh? Sorry, can you say that again?”

Thank goodness our English friends got us this book before we left the ATL:

And it isn’t just the language stuffs. Little things are different here. For instance.

1) Cars are teenier. Those two take up half an American parking space:

2) It’s not just a touristy ploy, the Scots do love Haggis everything (I do too, it turns out).

(Below) This was a food stall at the recent Edinburgh marathon:

 

3) Other things are smaller too. like our sink! Look how teeny. That normal sized bottle of soap tips off and falls into the sink constantly for lack of generous counter space:

 

Why such a teeny sink you wonder? Because it needs to fit in our teeny bathroom. If Matt and I are both in their at the same time, we have to queue to get out! Taking these photos I figured out a new way to wash my face (or stick my head in the sink out of despair because I can’t figure out how to maneuver out of the bathroom).

5) Another difference about this country? I tend to dress like this when I’m here. You never see me in hiking boots and a rain jacket in the ATL:

Next up! My new flat, and not just awkward bathroom pictures! Yippee! Miss you guys! I should have regularly running internet in the next few weeks. In the meantime, I’ll be slowly checking your comments and blogs with my stolen (and very slow — I’m not complaining!) wifi.

xoxoxo,

Lar

Matt and Lar in Scotland

As you can see, this past week we’ve been here, Matt shaved his mustache and decided my red lipstick looks better on him. I’ve dyed my hair and decided eyebrows were unnecessary (as well as eyelids). We’ve also taken to standing on tartan ground, in front of a large rose bush. Weird things happen when you move to a different country.

Oh wait, no! That’s not us (silly, Lar)! I get so easily confused these days, what with the lingering jet lag and unexpectedly summery weather here in the UK (70s and sunny! That’s not what I signed up for when I said I would move to Scotland). In fact, these photos are about two weeks old.

My mom threw us a going-away family dinner, and of course she did it so beautifully! My mom’s tablescapes would make Martha Stewart green with envy: the intentionally weird thrifted Scottish Madame Alexander dolls, tartan table cloth, Scottish flags, gorgeous flower arrangements — all done for very little money. Martha Stewart with a heart and on a budget (and no previous jail time) — that’s my mom.

Matt’s mom made us the most delicious and beautiful apple pie!

I’ll leave you one last outfit picture of mine, standing next to my (pepper shaker) Scottie dog:

Do you like my knee-highs or do you prefer ballet flats sans the tartan? I can’t decide. My lace cuffs look like they’ve seen better days as well. At least my fanny pack/bum bag/sporran looks cute!

Seriously though, I’m sorry I don’t have actual Scotland pics to share with you at the moment. Matt and I are still living out of our suitcases in our temporary flat (thank you Airbnb and host Tommy)! We move into our very own lovely place on Tuesday! I am soooo excited! I’ll make sure to take plenty of photos of our new space. In the meantime, we’ve both been working (Matt in his new lab at Uni and me on my computer: I’ve joined that “elite” group of remotely working graphic designers), and trying not to spend money — which makes for very boring photos.

Oh here’s one I’ve been meaning to share for a while. See that suitcase there? Blue, medium to largish. That, my friends, is what I fit my entire wardrobe in: shoes and clothes. My second suitcase was reserved for toiletries, artsy stuffs, and four purses. I’m quite proud I made it over here like that. However, because of it, you might have to count on Cath for a while for the cuter outfit pics 😉

Hope you all are having a wonderful weekend! Tell me what you’re up to!

 

XOXOs from Edinburgh!!!

Helloooo Lovelies!

I’ve missed you guys this past week! Cath and I have talked a few times via video Skype, but it’s weird not being able to just pick up the phone and call her (I have a temporary phone here that just does local calls and texts).


Skype is such a wonderful, wonderful thing:

Oh, so here is my new home town (just the castle-y bit):

Matt and I haven’t had much time to play tourist (good thing that we visited last year or I would be seriously grumpy). Since the moment we got into town, we’ve been scouring the city for a permanent place to live.

At the moment we are staying in Leith, which is a lovely town in the northern part of Edinburgh just by the sea (the Firth of Forth to be exact). We are staying with a wonderful Scottish man named Tom and his cat Suki, found via Air BnB (highly recommend it if you want a good place to stay at a very reasonable price).

Our nightly ritual after a long day of flat/apartment-hunting? Chatting with our host Tom and then snuggling up with cat Suki and watching BBC’s iplayer (and possibly eating some cookies/biscuits in bed – sorry about the crumbs, Matteo!):
When you guys come visit us, I’ll take you to this delicious pub in Leith called The King’s Wark. 600 years ago King James I (of Scotland) wanted a place to wet his whistle after stepping off his ship in Leith harbor before journeying up the hill to Edinburgh Castle. I wonder if the ham-smoked chicken pot-pie was as delicious six centuries ago?

I’m sorry I haven’t taken more touristy pics of Matt and I about town (probably much more interesting than these that I managed our first couple of days). We’ve both been a bit jet-lagged and very stressed with looking for an apartment. This is how Matt looks at me when I whip out my camera:

I promise my next few posts will have some more interesting visuals for you all to take in – something more satisfyingly Scottish. Oh! And here is a sneak peak of our soon-to-be site! That should be up and running in just the next little bit:

In the meantime, I’ll leave you with my only other pretty Edinburgh shot (this gorgeous city deserves a much better introduction – you guys will love it once I get my act together ). AsianCajun readers, meet Edinburgh Castle:

Hope you guys had a luverly weekend!!!

xoxo,

Lar